14 October 2005


Yep! Today's session was a good one. I knew that a bad day at work would probably mean I'd experience a good day in the water. I mean, my karma usually works that way. (Or should I say my Wheel of Fortune?) I left work yesterday pissed off at everyone . . . including myself. One day out of 16 isn't bad, especially for me, the woman who would quit a job at the drop of a hat before I had a child. Anyway, yesterday sucked. All I wanted today was to have fun in the water.

The call for the day was the Breakwater. CYT dislikes the homebreak and with good reason. The sandbars are a mess now; there isn't much to surf out there other than, yes, closeouts. Granted, there were closeouts today too, but I caught quite a few shoulders before I was knocked off the board. I was a little nervous today. I'd decided to finally get the funboard wet. Even though it's only six inches shorter than my Slick, it's a totally different animal. As soon as I started to paddle out, I panicked, thinking it too squirrely and too narrow. It just felt different than a single fin and I was not happy. Almost immediately, I asked CYT to switch boards with me. I wanted to at least get a couple of waves for the sake of my confidence before spending the rest of the session as a kook. I think my first wave (on her board) may have been my best wave of the day. It was a left. I carved up and down the face of it before making a backside turn. It was gooooooood! I felt like my old self, the one who used to surf four or five days a week. I got a second wave and then said I was ready to switch back. It took some time, but I eventually got the hang of the new board. You know, the new board I've had since June (or May) but hadn't ridden. Once I got my confidence up and got the hang of the board, I loved it. Truthfully, it was a relief. See, when Sensei Greg learned that Bruce Grant (now of Con Surfboards) was making me a board, he advised me to cancel the order. He said Bruce Grant's work was unpredictable, that I'd get either a great board or a piece of shit. His words stayed with me and I was hesistant to take the board out. I was expecting the worst. I'm happy to say, though, that this one is a keeper. The board is fast and seems to have a bit of snap to it. I've got to learn how to surf it. I still surf like a longboarder. I kept reminding myself to bend my knees more. And then, I'd catch a wave and go right back to my almost upright longboard stance. It'll take some time to make the mental and physical switch to a different type of board. I do believe, though, that this funboard is a good way to work my way down to my 7'0".

Hair update: Well, hmmmmm. These aren't quite locks. However, they aren't quite normal hair either. I'm reaching the in-between stage. My hair now wants to stay twisted. In fact, I do have a few bona fide locks in the back of my hair. I wish that part of my hair would hurry up and lead by example. Still, I know this is a process that can't be rushed. Here's a picture of my head a few hours after I got out of the water. It's obvious that changes are taking place. I'll just try to remain patient and stop obsessing about the locks.


At 10/15/05, 8:51 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

You'll get that 7'0 down in no time. You'll like it alot too...I guarantee.

At 10/24/05, 11:01 PM, Blogger Jim said...

Locks of love! Thanks for the update!

At 6/15/07, 7:36 AM, Blogger John C said...

Hi Surfsister,

I've enjoyed reading your blog. Thoughtful, circumspect and even helpful to me as I try to start surfing again after 25 years away.

I dig Con surfboards for a goofy reason: In '65 when I was a 4th grader living on Pensacola Beach my older brother got to take some surfing lessons and got a book on how to surf. Con surfboards were in all of the photos. "They" say that the music you grow up with will always be your preference, sort of hard coded at a cellular level. I guess this is the same mechanism.

I have a 9-10 Con pin but my surfing stinks and it's too much board for many of the conditions I encounter here in Florida. I'd like something smaller and more nimble, but still floaty enough to catch junk. The regular Con Egg in perhaps 7-6 length catches my fancy, the one with the aft-of-center hips. I hope this isn't an imposition, but I'd be interested to know how you feel about the Con boards you've surfed or seen, sort of what the concensus is.

Thanks a lot,

At 6/15/07, 7:52 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Thanks for the love, John. I don't know what to tell you. I've already sold mine. (Note: I'm writing this comment on 6/15/07.) You don't see many around and I'm not even sure if the company is still where I found them a year ago. As much as I liked Gil and Bruce, I'm going to have to suggest you try something else. I've not seen enough Cons to make me say, "Yes. Buy one now!" Keep surfing!



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