"Happy Happy, Joy Joy"
Where does that saying come from? I think it's "Ren and Stimpy". The funny thing is I've never seen that show. I just remember people always chanting those words.
I had a good day in the water. The waves finally had a little power (the operative words being "a little"). I actually had some longish rides—not long by San O standards but long by Santa Monica standards. I don't remember any of the successful waves. The one wave I am happy about is one I blew. However, I didn't fall off. Now, this is big. I have trouble weighting the inside rail when going backside. I usually lean over too far and fall. Today, I weighted the rail so hard that the board turned into and lost the wave. I did some serious contorting and somehow managed to stay on my feet. This might not sound like anything to be proud about. But I think it shows that I'm getting a better sense of my balance going backside. It was a fun session.
As we speak, my beloved longboard is sitting at a friend's house in Santa Monica. After getting out, I stopped to talk to our little beach family (i.e., Mom, Dad, and Beach Baby). As I was talking to Mom, she noticed that Dad was getting out of the water earlier than she'd expected. Well, it turns out the board he'd buckled a few weeks ago at El Porto broke again. It's an old Tyler with less glass than the Tylers the rest of us have. So, I'm standing there, looking at that broken board and seeing how broken-hearted he was. He loves that board. He loves it as much as I love mine. Since I was finished with my session and knew I wouldn't be back in the water until Tuesday, I gave him mine. Now don't get me wrong. I wouldn't loan my board to just anyone. But there are four or five people in our crew whom I trust enough and like enough to loan my pride and joy. My husband couldn't believe I'd done it. He said, "I wouldn't loan my motorcycle to anyone." I had to remind him it's not the same thing. A surfboard . . . is a surfboard. It might get dinged but that's about the worst that's going to happen. That board is not going to break and Dad is certainly not going to keep it. I'm just glad I could be of help in his hour of need. Dad told me, later, that he'll surf on the board tomorrow. That's fine. A surfboard is supposed to be in the water. I didn't give it to him so he'd guard it with his life. Surf the thing! Enjoy yourself! And just make sure to have it at the beach when I arrive on Tuesday.