What the #$@! Happened Here?

"Why is Joey on Tattoo John's board? Why is Sym on that board? When did 'Leah and John' John start surfing the Linden again?" Upon entering the water today, I noticed that people were not on their normal boards. I'm not used to that. Most of us have one board we adore and surf it 90% of the time. So why weren't people on their preferred boards? Joey: 9'3" Donald Takayama "In the Pink" epoxy board—snapped in two at our break. "Leah and John" John: 9'5" custom Tyler that he bought used—buckled at El Porto. Sym: 9'6" gorgeous Con Surfboard—cracked at Sunset because, as she said, "I was being a kook." Now I'm glad that I wasn't able to get a session in last week. There was some kind of weird, board killing karma going around. I can't afford a broken board at this point. The Tyler cost me too damn much and I will actually be in a persistent vegetative state if that heavy thing ever snaps in two. That board surfs like it was made for me. (Oh yeah, it was.) One member of our crew jokes that Tyler sprinkles pixie dust on the boards and that's what makes them magical. Whatever. I plan to pass this board onto my kid in ten years (although I bet he'll be a shortboarder by then and will laugh in my face when I try to give him this big log).

The conditions today were good enough. I've reached the point where I'm not all that picky anymore. If there's a wave to be had, I'll paddle out. It was windy and choppy today, but the waves had a decent shape. I got one long ride going backside. I had time to walk to the middle of the board, look around, do my taxes, step back and turn to make the section, step back up toward the middle of the board, order lunch, read War and Peace, step back and make another turn, write to my congressman, and then stall the board when the ride was finished. This wave made me realize that you really do need a long wave to truly work on cross-stepping and longboard footwork. I had time to walk around on that wave. I usually don't have that luxury so I always thought I was doing something wrong. Now I know I wasn't doing anything wrong. I'm simply at the mercy of the short, fast waves at our break. I suppose if I learn to really walk the board at my break, I'll have a ball at places like San O and Sunset.