I Left My Heart in San . . . a Town Further Up the Coast

You've got to love a town with a decent surf statute. After seeing all that's done about and to the Cardiff Kook, it was nice to see such a bad ass work of art related to surfing. I was even told that if I got up close enough, I could see up that dude's shorts. (Yeah, like there was anything to see!)

I was seriously impressed by the breaks I saw and surfed. The water wasn't overly cold. The shape was to my liking. The conditions, at least on the first day, were fantastic—the sun was out and the wind was non-existent. My only gripe was that I never got a chance to ride a decent left. Frankly, I liked the place so much that I quickly forgave it for that faux pas.

We went into a liquor store at one point. This cup was sitting right in front of the cash register. I didn't even ask about it. I simply smiled and made sure to take a picture.

I wanted to do an extended blog post about this, my first bona fide, surf trip. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take my camera. I got on the road at 4:30 a.m. About seven hours later, I arrived at my destination. I'd been told to be there by noon. Low tide was at noon; the waves would be best then. I pulled into the parking lot around 11:30. I think we finally paddled out at 12:30.

It was the best surf trip ever! Granted, it was my first surf trip, but I don't think any trip could get much better than this one. My only regret is that I didn't get a chance to meet Steiny face-to-face.