I Really Need to Cheer Down
Of course, that is impossible on a mat. Today's session was especially memorable because Tremor, my mat partner in crime, and I were doing a hell of a lot of hooting out there. The waves were pretty much perfect. There was enough swell in the water to, on separate occasions, snatch the mats out of our hands. That is such a rare occurrence. However, if there's a decent amount of power in the water, it is likely you and the mat are going to part company. Hell, a couple of those set waves had me going, "#$%^# #*^&%^@ #$#$#$#!!
Before half of L.A. paddled out to join us, we were having a ball. I said I was going to ride my mat more this year and I meant it. I'm holding true to that promise too. I knew this spot would break through the high tide.
The wave looks to be good on a board. I know it's great for a mat. I certainly didn't see any surfers getting truly covered up. But look at Tremor!!
Bring on the SW swells of summer!