Thanksgiving is the New Black Friday

This is not a surf-related title. It's just the thought that keeps coming into my head with all of this talk about pre-, mid- and post-Thanksgiving sales. I must be allergic to shopping because I have no interest in any of the money-spending frenzy. We're in a recession. Too many people are either unemployed or underemployed. Where are people getting this money the retailers think we all have lying around to spend at our discretion? See, this is one of the reasons why I surf. It keeps me off the streets and out of trouble. Even if I didn't surf, I wouldn't be shopping, but surfing ensures that my focus is not on what I can or can't buy for those around me (including myself).

I just surf. Then I go home and get on with my day.

The home break has been on and poppin' for the last two days. Offshores. Shoulders. Smiles. I've surfed so much that I've suffered more than a few foam beatdowns from my beloved Almond log. Today saw me forget to plan my exit strategy on one wave in particular. That resulted in the board and I being tossed around in the whitewater. At some point during that incident, that huge D fin delivered a blindingly painful blow to my hamstring. I'm still walking funny more than 12 hours later. Of course, my biggest relief was in the fact that the fin didn't cut through that custom wetsuit. It's still "gonna leave a mark" though.

Pray for more surf like this: