Day Four of Four

This was taken on my last day in the water before the weather went on strike. I managed to get wet for four straight days—three of them were on a surfboard and the last was on the mat. After suffering through closeouts on the first day, I set out for greener pastures, so to speak, on the following days. So, the second and third days saw me heading down to the OC. I found what I was looking for on both occasions: uncrowded waves with shape. On the fourth day, I decided to stay a bit closer to home. I drove north on PCH with no particular spot in mind. I went to my favorite point break, but it wasn't quite working. Then I headed further north, stopping at a well-known beach break. The wind was already on it, therefore I wasn't too enthused about the idea of paddling out there. I got back in the car and headed south a ways, finally ending up at a break I've only surfed on one other occasion. It's one that mat riders in L.A. speak of often. I decided I would see what all of the fuss was about. In the end, I could see why people like the spot, whether on a board or on a mat. However, the wave itself is a little too fickle for my tastes. One thing about being on a mat is you get a good sense of how a spot works. You're down there with the wave as its forming. You can see much more happening than you ever can while sitting on a board.

This spot was good, yes, but I would argue that The Place Which Shall Remain Nameless is better. The latter has more peaks and more room. The spot I went to yesterday has a limited take off zone. Were it the only game in town, I probably wouldn't be so critical. But we live on the coast. There's a wave to fit everyone's tastes. The spot I matted yesterday is not quite to my liking. I take my hat off to those who have it wired. You all make it look easy . . . when I know that surfing there is not.

It's going to rain this weekend. Stay fit and fix your dings. Good weather and clean water will be back soon enough.