12 August 2010

Summer or a Reasonable Facsimile Thereof?

When I got to the home break today, I was stoked. I just had an inkling that those summer waves I enjoy so much would make an appearance. The sun was not shining. The wind was up a bit. All of us are still in fullsuits. I was still a believer.

Suffice it to say I surfed for over two hours. The home break delivered waves with shoulders!! Then the sun came out!!! WTF? Is this summer? Maybe yes, maybe no. At this point, I'll take what I can get and be satisfied with whatever the ocean gives me. Some called the conditions flat. I say, "Have big board, will travel." If it's not dead flat, I'm paddling out. There's always something you can catch on a longboard.

I'm ready for summer to make an appearance before it's too late.


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