I Heart Closeouts—Now With More Backwash!
I can make neither heads nor tails of conditions like those. It seemed that every wave folded over . . . violently. As if that wasn't enough, the backwash made riding those waves tantamount to standing up on a bucking bronco. At times, the backwash was as strong as the incoming waves. I think we would have been smarter to surf going towards the horizon! I certainly lack the skills or the patience for such waves. For the first time in a very long time, I got out of the water angry. The whole session was pointless.
Point . . .
less!
posted by Surfsister @ 13:20
7 comments
7 Comments:
Some days are better for Skating... just saying
So true, Nooner. I'll probably jump on the ramp in a bit.
It must have been a mat day then! The noble wave craft that magically turns poor looking waves into extraordinarily fun ones!
Someone else suggested that to me. The only problem is that mats are not legal in L.A. County (although we still ride them anyway). But I was certain I would be kicked out of the water had I taken out my mat. And the waves seriously sucked. I don't even think the mat would have helped.
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Pointless?! No way it was pointless....you caught it, tried a nice little cutback (you-goofy-footer-you), and it didn't work. If you're not falling in the drink, you're not learning. I'd love to have that wave, right this minute.
I used to take water skiing (MC racing and other stuff) too seriously. It didn't start that way, it started as just fun, but as I got good I started having visions of...well not grandeur but in a nearby postal code. I got ticked at myself if every pass/outing/practice session wasn't better than the last. Things became less fun. I left the slalom course/MC track/whatever, angry. That's not the hot set-up for happiness. I'll never get that wrapped up in performance ever again. I surf, I try hard to learn, I fall, I sometimes get scared, sometimes aggravated at other surfers (and then shake it off) but I never leave the water with anything but a smile.
You looked good, I like your board's color scheme, and that was one dandy pearl! Nothing not to like there.
You're alright, John. My attitude improved when I acknowledged that I needed to get away from the home break and find a wave I could ride. Between the backwash and the closing, these waves were prone to seasickness.
Surfed Malibu yesterday and it was just fine. Thanks!
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