01 August 2010

I Heart Closeouts—Now With More Backwash!

I can make neither heads nor tails of conditions like those. It seemed that every wave folded over . . . violently. As if that wasn't enough, the backwash made riding those waves tantamount to standing up on a bucking bronco. At times, the backwash was as strong as the incoming waves. I think we would have been smarter to surf going towards the horizon! I certainly lack the skills or the patience for such waves. For the first time in a very long time, I got out of the water angry. The whole session was pointless.

Point . . .

less!

7 Comments:

At 8/1/10, 3:35 PM, Blogger Nooner said...

Some days are better for Skating... just saying

 
At 8/1/10, 3:44 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

So true, Nooner. I'll probably jump on the ramp in a bit.

 
At 8/1/10, 3:47 PM, Blogger Ramsnake said...

It must have been a mat day then! The noble wave craft that magically turns poor looking waves into extraordinarily fun ones!

 
At 8/1/10, 3:59 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Someone else suggested that to me. The only problem is that mats are not legal in L.A. County (although we still ride them anyway). But I was certain I would be kicked out of the water had I taken out my mat. And the waves seriously sucked. I don't even think the mat would have helped.

 
At 8/6/10, 11:20 PM, Blogger SlowPolk said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

 
At 8/8/10, 10:17 AM, Blogger John said...

Pointless?! No way it was pointless....you caught it, tried a nice little cutback (you-goofy-footer-you), and it didn't work. If you're not falling in the drink, you're not learning. I'd love to have that wave, right this minute.

I used to take water skiing (MC racing and other stuff) too seriously. It didn't start that way, it started as just fun, but as I got good I started having visions of...well not grandeur but in a nearby postal code. I got ticked at myself if every pass/outing/practice session wasn't better than the last. Things became less fun. I left the slalom course/MC track/whatever, angry. That's not the hot set-up for happiness. I'll never get that wrapped up in performance ever again. I surf, I try hard to learn, I fall, I sometimes get scared, sometimes aggravated at other surfers (and then shake it off) but I never leave the water with anything but a smile.

You looked good, I like your board's color scheme, and that was one dandy pearl! Nothing not to like there.

 
At 8/8/10, 11:36 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

You're alright, John. My attitude improved when I acknowledged that I needed to get away from the home break and find a wave I could ride. Between the backwash and the closing, these waves were prone to seasickness.

Surfed Malibu yesterday and it was just fine. Thanks!

 

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