16 July 2010

Spoke Too Soon (or Why It's No Longer Summer)

That is a picture of me kicking out. Period. That's about the most exciting thing that happened in my session.

The sun never did make an appearance. However, the rain did. The wind blew this way, that way and the other way, making for a somewhat chilly session as compared to the last few days of sun and glassy goodness. As you can see from the picture, it was gray and choppy, cool and stormy.

July Gloom has returned with a vengeance. (Sigh)

People continue to stare at me when I swim in for my board or as I walk, with my board, from the water back to the car. I've come to expect the stares now. The staring would unnerve me when I was a newbie surfer. Now, I tend to ignore the stares. In fact, I'm not proud to admit that I will sometimes gift those staring at me with stinkeye in return. Why? Well, I spent my first few years as a surfer having to constantly discuss my presence in the water with those who found it worthy of conversation. I've evolved. I don't want to waste my sessions talking to people who are intrigued by the presence of a black, particularly a black female, surfer. It's not an interesting topic of conversation for me. When I'm in the water, I don't want to spend much time talking about it or anything else. I just surf. If you find it interesting or inspiring, good for you. If you find it not worth thinking about, better for me. The stinkeye is reserved for those who feel compelled to engage me in a serious conversation about all of this during the middle of my session. Don't want to talk about it. I exchange quick pleasantries with strangers. I will spend a minute or two talking to a friend when he or she paddles by. Other than that, I wish to be left alone to surf in peace. So, people can continue to stare. I expect that and often wave to those who are obviously taken aback. I get it. If I weren't a surfer and I saw a black chick out in the water catching waves or carrying a surfboard or waxing a board, I'd stare too. Why do I bring this up? I have no idea. I guess I got stared at more than usual this week.

Pray for glassy surf with shape!


At 7/17/10, 6:08 AM, Blogger pabs said...

Surf sista I feel ya regarding the "alone time" thing...read my latest blog post and let me know your impressions.

As I got better at handling myself in the surf, and following my "awakening" within in the crowded line-ups of SOCAL, I too can't stand having anyone within my stoke-zone...in fact, don't ya just hated when you PURPOSELY paddle for a lone peak, away from everyone else, but as soon as ya start to get some decent rides, everyone else begins to drift over to your spot! I call this predicament "drawing flies". ;-)

Anyways, have fun out there and keep giving them thar kooks the stinkeye, only to educate them on the ignorance of their idiocy. :-)

At 7/23/10, 3:05 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sweet board! Pondering getting something similar (and we're somewhat alike in build. If you ignore my meager paddling muscle). Curious how those dims are for walking around and up to the nose -- I think you mentioned somewhere it's 22" wide? P.S. Black/blue looking great.

At 7/23/10, 3:10 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I had the shaper make it on the narrow side so that I can turn it on a dime. I think it's a 9'2" that's 22" wide at the widest part. It's a little wobbly as a result, but I can walk it without a problem. I've got no complaints about this board. None. It's just what I asked the shaper to make for me. Perfection. Oh yeah, it's an Almond (out of Newport Beach).

At 7/26/10, 11:28 AM, Blogger Surfing Grandma of OC said...

Maybe they are just staring at you because how "HOT" you are.. You have a great physque and they are just jealous.. ;-)


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