02 August 2010

I Also Heart Small Winter Swells—Now With More Hypothermia!

This summer has been one for the ages, hasn't it?

I just about froze to death in my 3/2 this morning. A guy near me had on a 4/3, but it wasn't doing him much good either. How cold was it? I drove home with the heat going in the car. The heat!!

As for the waves? Meh. At least I had the sense to turn my back on the beach break and head to a point. Still, there wasn't much of note happening there. I know that one of the lulls had to be about 20 minutes long. By the time a wave finally loped on through, I was too cold and stiff to paddle like I meant it.

In the end, I can't complain too much. My sessions over the last year have made me very happy. While I do see my one year knee replacement anniversary as a milestone, I feel that my one year anniversary of returning to surfing is equally important. I got my bionic self back on a board on July 30, 2009. So I've just celebrated another anniversary. And the knee continues to be a help rather than a hindrance (which is what my God given knee had become).


At 8/3/10, 4:35 AM, Blogger SlowPolk said...

The Sun came out just a bit down here and the Sunsets have been captivating the waves a little less captivating.

At 8/3/10, 11:39 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

surfed bareback sat!!! mind over matter. CB


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