For Kenny Bloggins

I read a lot of blogs, especially those related to surfing. If you write a surf blog, I've probably seen it. Believe me when I tell you, I know you're there. I may never have commented. I may only have visited once, lost the link and never visited your blog again, but I know you're there. More importantly, I'm glad you're there. I don't look at any of the surf magazines. They do nothing for me. I can't relate to them. I'm the wrong demographic for each and every one of them. I've got no problem with that. I know I'm an exception to the rule . . . er, stereotype . . . er, assumption . . . or whatever word you want to use to describe what your average surfer looks like. When people conjure up an image of a surfer, that image doesn't look anything like me. I say all this to explain that my written stoke comes solely from surf blogs (and Liquid Salt).

Being the board whore that I am, I'm particularly interested in surf shop blogs. I'm a sucker for good board porn. My head is easily turned by well-shaped colorful surfboard. That's what led me to Kenny Bloggins of the Mitch's North blog. The pictures attracted me to the blog in the first place. It's the running commentary that now keeps me coming back on a regular basis.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Kenny gets deep . . . .

Well howdy there blogsters, Kenny Bloggins coming at you live from my inland chemotherapy treatment center as I'm being intravenously infused with harsher drugs than you could get on any sketchy dark Tijuana back alley. . . .

This is the most intoxicating and utterly raw way to take notice of yourself, life, nutrition and gratitude for every person and experience we're so lucky to have. In this mind state there are no kooks; hip styles, lousy surf conditions, elite surf clicks, premium boards, fancy surf rigs, ego trips, rippers, trippers, or more rightful surfers than others. We're all disillusioned in the pursuit of FUN on these glorified water sleds as we dance the surface of the ocean, trying to exude our self expression and obtain feelings that are so self centered and utterly unimportant that the thought of all the negative energy and self righteous elitism that our surf culture breeds is down right embarrassing to the tune of the real world. Give away a wave for me and all the other dampened souls in this oncology center. Thanks for listening, hope that wasn't to heavy for a supposed janky surf shop blog.

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Surfing ruined what?

There is a common phrase I like to use, at least it's common amongst my surfing cohort and that is "Surfing ruined my life". Now this obviously has sarcasm written all over it but... when I think about the choices I want to make; where I want to live, the people I want to travel with,the things I get most stoked to read or watch, and just what heck I'm going to do with my life, they all have that one pining, itching, commonality of surfing attached. And as the experience grows and the understanding and expectations of what surfing and I together have come to be, it just becomes that much more wonderfully inconvenient. The giddy yearnings for stoke and epic slide time are routinely shut in my face, turning the disappointment and anger into a deeper loathing to surf, "It'll be good tomorrow, I'll go home and read the new Journal or something". The days that slip by that go unsurfed only exercise the brain more and more as it glitches and spazzes like an unleashed dog, wandering off somewhere into a perfect line up. . . .

I've inspected and mind surfed my sticks in the front yard over coffee many o times. Yeah, it doesn't help too much but it reminds me of where I am and how lucky I am, and that I'm going to be able to put those things back under my feet and in the water again very soon. I've seen some dark days over the last few months and seen some things that would even make Mickey Mouse bummed out. I cried and laughed and slept and I even thought I might die once or twice. In the midst of this I'd have to say my motto has changed a little bit since I've battled this thing. I'd have to say "Surfing saved my Life" because If I couldn't have dreamed what I dreamt, and found the life and optimism that surfing gave me I would have succumb to the things you don't ever want to feel or dream. Thanks for Listening, Kenny Bloggins

Before I had my knee replaced, I feared that my life as a surfer was over. After I had the surgery, part of me was certain I would never surf again. And that fear was very real, very heavy. I was, however, able to keep it all in perspective. I told myself that if I never surfed again, I would at least be able to look back on the years I had surfed and be satisfied with that. In other words, I understood that my life would go on even without surfing.

When I read Kenny Bloggins' posts, I'm reminded how lucky I am, how lucky we all are that we get to do the things we love. I take none of this for granted. I paddle out on shitty days because I'm grateful for any wave that I can slide a board over. I don't require perfection. I just require a wave.

Anyway, I let Kenny Bloggins know that I'd be surfing for him. And today was his day. This whole session was for him. If he can't surf, I'll surf for him. People surfed for me when I was learning to live with my titanium parts. I appreciated every wave that was caught for me. It's now my turn to pay it forward.

There was nothing particularly good out there today. That doesn't mean you don't make the best of it. I enjoy shitty days if only because they keep the crowds at bay. It's on days like this that I just play. When you know the waves won't cooperate, you figure out ways to have fun nonetheless. For me it was, trying to run up to the nose before the wave closed out or trying not to lose the board when the closeouts put the smack down on me. I had a ball . . . for Kenny Bloggins. Every smile was his. Every swim for the board was his. The one surprisingly good left . . . was his.

Kenny, we had a damn good session given the conditions. The water was freezing, but I still ain't gonna wear no stinkin' (literally!!!) booties.


If you don't smile when you surf, there's something wrong with you.

We're waiting for you to return to the lineup. In the meantime, we'll keep catching waves for you!