03 March 2010

Anatomy of a Clueless Longboarder

Imagine my surprise upon seeing this photo and noting that there was a lip pitching behind me. I didn't even know it was there. (Obviously I was getting low because I knew the wave was folding over, but I didn't know that was behind me.) I've asked others if I could actually have gotten barreled by this wave. One friend flat out said, "Claim it!" Ha! I would love to, but I don't think I could get away with that claim. Another friend said, "Depends on if it held up like that down the line, but yes, possible."

Hmmmm. The problem for me is crouching down lower. I still have limited range of motion in the new knee, but I think I can crouch if necessary. Now I'm thinking that if this spot is going to deliver small barrels like that, I'm going to grab my shorter boards (when I know I'm going there) and look for one. I've never been barreled before. In fact, I always assumed that would not be part of my surfing reality since I generally think of people standing straight up in a giant tube. But, hell, if crouching as low as I can will get me the much-vaunted barrel, I can at least make a sincere attempt to get myself into one.

Stay tuned.

9 Comments:

At 3/3/10, 6:00 PM, Blogger Bill said...

ooooooo just a little lower,a hand in that face and voila.
so close

the cover shot for Almost Magazine Lol

surf on sis...

 
At 3/3/10, 7:22 PM, Blogger Ramsnake said...

Awww, so close!

 
At 3/3/10, 7:55 PM, Blogger Okemah said...

Somewhere, your mat was gently weeping...

 
At 3/3/10, 7:59 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

You're right, O. The only problem is that I can't ride the mat in L.A. County with the lifeguard looking. It's illegal. It also gets so crowded at this break (with a small takeoff area) that I'd probably get run down.

 
At 3/3/10, 8:26 PM, Blogger Worm said...

http://www.latimes.com/news/obituaries/la-me-bob-biniak4-2010mar04,0,3767884.story

 
At 3/3/10, 9:08 PM, Blogger SlowPolk said...

nice!

 
At 3/3/10, 9:31 PM, Blogger PG said...

Sheesh. And I though you knew something about surfing, Sis.

The proper play would have been to say you were just coming out of an 8 second barrel, and the dufus photog missed the whole thing!

There's always next time...

 
At 3/5/10, 9:18 AM, Blogger pabs said...

SHACK'ILLicious! Thanks for providing me a inspirational image to aspire to when the exile is over. Just a note: I posted something on my blog that mentions you...sort of a tribute...hope you don't mind. It's under Spirtiualized Stoke.

 
At 3/7/10, 7:57 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

nice...'ranger danger'. thats a rad image. -ozzie

 

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