Anatomy of a Clueless Longboarder

Imagine my surprise upon seeing this photo and noting that there was a lip pitching behind me. I didn't even know it was there. (Obviously I was getting low because I knew the wave was folding over, but I didn't know that was behind me.) I've asked others if I could actually have gotten barreled by this wave. One friend flat out said, "Claim it!" Ha! I would love to, but I don't think I could get away with that claim. Another friend said, "Depends on if it held up like that down the line, but yes, possible."

Hmmmm. The problem for me is crouching down lower. I still have limited range of motion in the new knee, but I think I can crouch if necessary. Now I'm thinking that if this spot is going to deliver small barrels like that, I'm going to grab my shorter boards (when I know I'm going there) and look for one. I've never been barreled before. In fact, I always assumed that would not be part of my surfing reality since I generally think of people standing straight up in a giant tube. But, hell, if crouching as low as I can will get me the much-vaunted barrel, I can at least make a sincere attempt to get myself into one.

Stay tuned.