30 March 2009

Ain't Nothin' But a Party, Y'all

There must be something wrong with me as I no longer suffer party wave fools lightly. I mean, damn, can a sista (or brotha or bro or broham or whatever) get a wave without 10 of my new best friends? I take my waves and then I politely sit to let others take theirs, even if their wave is coming right at me and the little devil on my shoulder is shouting at me to "Go!". Then my wave comes. I know I've got it. Everyone knows I've got it. What do you think happens? There she is. The person I surf with the most. Why should my waves be an exception to her practice of dropping in on anyone with priority? Why should I be exempt from her bad behavior? At least I know she's an equal opportunity snake. Therefore, I don't take offense . . . much.

My question for the day: Given the number of people who now surf, is it realistic to expect people to wait their turn? When you see film of Malibu or Swamis, I would think not. The crowds are such that it's literally catch as catch can when you're out in the water. Then does that mean that surf etiquette is an ideal rather than a possibility on a crowded day at a popular break?

I have no answers. I'm one of those people who philosophizes about almost everything. My session today was fine. I'm still on a mission to surf as much as I can until I go in for surgery, which has yet to be scheduled. There was some snaking going on today. I especially hate that when it's not crowded. However, I'm not putting up with a lot of stupid bullshit in the water right now since my days are numbered. I'm going to get my waves. I'd prefer not to drop in on people and try not to do it to those who are being polite. My patience for snakes, even those whom I consider friends, is waning. Perhaps no one told them that patience is a virtue. There will always be another wave.

4 Comments:

At 4/2/09, 2:18 AM, Blogger Rebecca Olive said...

Oh I am SO there with you on the snaking front. I'ma patient lady too, so when you've been waiting and watching and accepting the busy break and knowing that your turn wil arrive and then some prick paddles to your inside and swoops, well, I HATE it. And have been known to have rather large reactions to it...

 
At 4/4/09, 7:02 PM, Blogger Tony Lewis said...

Hell, I have to look for people to surf with up here...
But I grew up at Topanga, 27 years of the place.
Some days, I just went regardless, other days...I let the old guys go. Now that I am an 'old guy'...
Good luck with your knee thing.
Retro

 
At 4/6/09, 8:14 AM, Blogger David J. Hirsh said...

What surgery?

 
At 4/8/09, 3:59 PM, Blogger pabs said...

You'd think that being where the water is always a comfortable 5/4 wetsuit temp...crowded line-ups would not be a problem...WRONG! Check out my you tube video on my page labeled "Camel Rock..."

 

Post a Comment

<< Home