13 March 2009

Food for Thought

Then I remembered the crowds. Every year they get worse. A wave only has room for one surfer to express himself freely, and this becomes impossible when there is a pack. Breaks I used to surf alone a few years ago now have dozens of surfers there. Surfing is my main satisfaction in life and I get little pleasure from it when the surf is crowded. My temperament is wrong for crowded surfing conditions; I just can't handle it.

George Greenough


At 3/13/09, 10:49 PM, Blogger Lightgnar said...

what a gem mary. thank you so much for sharing :)

At 3/15/09, 1:54 PM, Anonymous G Shays said...

Where did you get that quote by George Greenough?


At 3/15/09, 2:30 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

It's part of the voice-over in the film Crystal Voyager. There's a clip on Pranaglider's blog Frequent Rip Currents.


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