Food for Thought
Then I remembered the crowds. Every year they get worse. A wave only has room for one surfer to express himself freely, and this becomes impossible when there is a pack. Breaks I used to surf alone a few years ago now have dozens of surfers there. Surfing is my main satisfaction in life and I get little pleasure from it when the surf is crowded. My temperament is wrong for crowded surfing conditions; I just can't handle it.