24 March 2009

The Money Shots

For the first time since I started riding a mat, I actually rode a wave, as opposed to thinking I was riding a wave until I saw the pictures of me flailing in the whitewater. As soon as I was in it, I knew I'd done it right. Granted, I didn't do it right for long. I stalled and then had no idea what to do. Nevertheless, I got myself on the shoulder of this wave. I saw that it was a right and, lo and behold, went right.

I'd love to say it was easy. It wasn't. I'd love to say that my subsequent waves were a testament to my newfound abilities. They weren't. My newfound abilities quickly got themselves lost once that ride was over. I was right back where I'd started. Or was I?

I learned a lot during this session. After receiving quite a bit of internet coaching from other mat riders, I had much less trouble today navigating the paddle out. I even managed to duck dive a few of the waves.

I wanted to surf today, however I'm nursing my knee through a recent rough patch of arthritis. I'm feeling better than I did over most of the last week, but I'm not 100%. Still, I wanted to be in the water. Today, my surfboard stayed in the car chillin' while the mat and fins were called into action. Tomorrow I go to the orthopedist to find out how bad the joint has degenerated since my last complaint about horrendous pain almost six years ago. I'm not prepared to give up on this joint yet and I refuse to take knee replacement for an answer. All I want to know is whether there is any cartilage left. I'm not a betting woman, but if this were Vegas, I'd say the odds are that there isn't.


At 3/24/09, 4:08 PM, Blogger Esteban Pumpernickel said...

Looks fun!

At 3/24/09, 5:51 PM, Blogger Christian said...

If you have no cartilage, could they inject the knee with the gel that simulates it? I know some athletes have this done. Keep us posted.

Great style on the mat. It looks like a ton of fun. Soon you'll be getting pitted at Drainpipes up in Zuma.

At 3/24/09, 6:00 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Christian, I'm thinking that cartilage replacement may be my next step. However, my knee is in such a bad state that I'm unsure whether cartilage replacement is an option. I'm hoping the doc orders an MRI so we can take a good look.

At 3/24/09, 6:49 PM, Blogger Ramsnake said...

I have also recently rediscovered, when the conditions in Summer are shit, lie down surfing, albeit on a bodyboard.
There is something very rewarding and exciting about riding a wave lying down so close to the wave face especially when it is steeper. It is also a hell of a better work out than sitting around on a stand up board waiting for a wave.
I was so close to getting barrelled the other day too which is something I am yet to acheive standing up and may never do so.
The thought of actually possibly being able to get myself in a barrel even has me pondering the thought of purchasing a knee board.
Like you I have a buggared knee but and it does not really like me to kneel on it but.....a barrel is a barrel!

At 3/25/09, 3:24 AM, Blogger miCheLLeBLOG said...

Hi, I am Ramsnake's partner and ditto - we are having a lot of fun on the bodyboards when the surf is onshore or just crap.
Best of luck with the knee....I have heard really good things about knee repalcements if you have to get one.

At 3/25/09, 6:41 AM, Blogger Bill said...

wishing you luck on the knee thing

At 3/25/09, 9:54 AM, Anonymous goofyfootmatt said...

The best way to get barrelled on a body board is to use a Water Wonder or one of those kickboards you see at the swimming pool. It's very nice to be out on a big crunchy day and be able to duck dive easy. You can really position yourself into the critical part of the wave and zip along and carve and get your body into the tube -- as opposed to a bigger mat or sponge.


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