14 March 2009


I agree with everything Greenough posits about crowds. Although I did not surf this break today, I was at one that was, it seemed, almost as crowded. When it's like that, surfing becomes a free-for-all devoid of freedom, enjoyment and self-expression. There's nothing party-like about a party wave . . . unless it's a party where people throw up in your closet and think the floor is a good substitute for the toilet.




At 3/14/09, 11:43 AM, Blogger Christian said...

I wrote about this, too. Many colleges are on spring break, so it's a fucking zoo out there. There's just not enough swell to go around. Just when we all need some space to cool off, the crowds heat up.

At 3/14/09, 12:05 PM, Blogger Worm said...

i am still in love with that place. you should hang out there tomorrow.

or call me for a slide

5 6 2 6 7 6 5 5 1 3

At 3/14/09, 12:12 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I don't think I have a surf pass for tomorrow. I love that place too . . . when it's not crowded. Alas, it doesn't have a left for me so I'm not in love with the wave. If I don't see you, hit it hard for me tomorrow!

At 3/14/09, 12:56 PM, Blogger Bill said...

I will never forget a certain a-hole yelling out, as I stood an a great,fast, fatty
" don't let em ride it alone "
He is a good surfer, but he IS an equally impressive F*%k wad as well.

find yer spot and surf on Sis

At 3/14/09, 1:04 PM, Blogger Worm said...

that's what she said

At 3/16/09, 10:21 AM, Anonymous Pappy said...

I miss surfing, my body will not allow me to surf. Still I think of it and once a surfer always a surfer. But I have to say, the crowds I do not miss, I always have said that I was born a surfer in the wrong generation. Imagine surfing The BU on a 6ft day with five people out. I wish surfing would go out of style.

At 3/17/09, 12:16 PM, Anonymous reverb said...

...let the swell come and surf s up and you ll not see that level of crowd...
only hardcore surfers, and real surfers


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