11 November 2007

Small, Windy and Cold

Yesterday's fun, playful waves gave way to not much to speak of today. Nevertheless, we paddled out. We were there and it was just after 6 a.m. (See how early you have to surf when you're the parent of a small child or two?) When we took a look, you could already see the texture on the water. Oh well. I went sans leash since it was small yesterday. That was a good decision. There was hardly anyone out at that hour and what waves there were didn't pack much punch. I lost the board twice—the first time because I forgot I wasn't wearing a leash, the second time because the lip jacked up all of a sudden and pushed me forward off the board. I can tell I've spent months in the pool. When I swam for the board, I got to it much faster than I used to. I'd look up, mid-stroke, wondering how much farther I'd need to swim. Each time I was surprised to find the board right in front of my face because I'd gotten to it in a few strokes. It wasn't much of a session. However, it was still better than sitting around the house all morning.

1 Comments:

At 11/12/07, 11:09 AM, Blogger gracefullee said...

Except for the long lull right around high tide, it was fun at home break again Sunday. Did a little cross-step and everything! :)

 

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