Small, Windy and Cold
Yesterday's fun, playful waves gave way to not much to speak of today. Nevertheless, we paddled out. We were there and it was just after 6 a.m. (See how early you have to surf when you're the parent of a small child or two?) When we took a look, you could already see the texture on the water. Oh well. I went sans leash since it was small yesterday. That was a good decision. There was hardly anyone out at that hour and what waves there were didn't pack much punch. I lost the board twice—the first time because I forgot I wasn't wearing a leash, the second time because the lip jacked up all of a sudden and pushed me forward off the board. I can tell I've spent months in the pool. When I swam for the board, I got to it much faster than I used to. I'd look up, mid-stroke, wondering how much farther I'd need to swim. Each time I was surprised to find the board right in front of my face because I'd gotten to it in a few strokes. It wasn't much of a session. However, it was still better than sitting around the house all morning.
1 Comments:
Except for the long lull right around high tide, it was fun at home break again Sunday. Did a little cross-step and everything! :)
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