10 November 2007

I'm Moving Behind the Orange Curtain

Actually, I'm doing no such thing. But when I go down there to surf, I start to give serious thought to such a move. I kind of knew it would take a trip back down there to get me out of my surf slump (even though the slump started down there last weekend).

I don't know how many waves I caught. As I've said before, I don't keep score. I do know I rode every wave alone. Yes, alone!!! What a concept, riding a wave by yourself. I also got to go left on all but one or two of my waves. Finally, there were shoulders. I wasn't forced to pop-up and head straight for the sand. No, I could pop-up and make a bottom turn before deciding what I wanted to do. I could pump the board for speed if I wanted. And there was more than enough time and room for me to walk the board . . . badly. Nonetheless, I still had the space and the time. The waves weren't big. Who cares? The lack of serious size seems to keep people out of the water. That's fine by me. I'm paddling out whether it's small or kind of big. I'm not that picky. I just want waves. And I got them today, thank you very much.


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