24 November 2006

Monogamous I'm Not

Fine. I'll admit it: I'm not a one board woman. I simply cannot commit to one board. Today I was back on the Slick. I knew the waves would be smaller than they were yesterday. The only board I wanted to be on was the Slick. Once again, it was the right call since the waves at the home break were mushy and slow. Today's session was the exact opposite of the suffer fest I had in the water yesterday. I rocked today. No, I'm not tooting my own horn and I'm not ready to go on tour with the pros. I just know when I'm surfing well. Today was one of those days. I was only out for an hour and got about 10 waves, two of which were nice little lefts that I rode all the way to shore. One of the locals approached me later, telling me he saw me get "really nice wave". Yes!!! A session is that much better when someone witnesses a good ride. Yesterday, another surfer was telling his friend that I'm a longboarder, "a very good one". Who, me? See, I know something about my surfing is changing. I can tell I'm begninng to surf a little differently than I was even a few months ago. I don't know if I've gained yet another level of comfort in the water or what. It really doesn't matter. I'm glad I'm making progress. Today was fun. It more than made up for the horror of yesterday. I'll get back on the other board and I know what I have to do when I'm on it.


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