Cutting to the Chase
Now that the weekend is long gone, I don't feel like blogging about it. I'm making myself write something though. The purpose of this blog is to help me track my progress in surfing. So, I am making myself talk about the weekend.
I hadn't wanted to drive down to San Clemente just for a surfboard, especially a used shortboard. However, there was no other way to get it. The guy who sold it was a pain in the ass who said I had to pick it up between 11 and 1. (Of course, when I got there, the board was sitting by the front door with a note saying the seller had to step out and to leave the money under the mat. The only reason I didn't steal the board outright and then lie later about having left the money is because I believe in negative karma). Soul Brother #1, upon hearing of this guy's stipulations, decided the three of us would drive down that morning and stop at San O on the way. Did you hear me? It was his idea. Going to San O. His idea. There's a pod under the bed. I just know it. (If you've never seen Invasion of the Bodysnatchers, you'll have no idea what I'm talking about.) Unfortunately, the tide was a little too high. There were a few peaks here and they were crowded with people. I was in no mood to fight a crowd, so I stayed out of the way. I got one good ride in the hour I was there. The rest of the time I did a lot of paddling for waves that didn't break until they were onshore. I, and everyone else in my vicinity, was also contending with this dude on a huge board who was a total wave hog. Damn longboarders!!! I found out later the guy was on a 10'1" board that was four inches thick. I wasn't in the water long. Even with my low wave count, I couldn't be disappointed. San O is the bomb. The waves are great, yes, but so are the people.
Home break. Beautiful weather. I started out on the 7'1" board. I got frustrated quickly as I watched longboard waves roll through one after another. I caught a wave, gave myself a pat on the back, and went to the car to switch boards. Noteworthy comments a stranger made to me, "Are you always so enthusiastic?" I guess I was smiling from ear to ear. I tend to do that when the weather and the waves come together like they did on Sunday. I didn't feel like I had a stellar session or even a good one. The rides weren't as long as I would have liked. I guess, in retrospect, my session was fine. I wasn't feelin' it so it's hard to tell. My wave count was good though.