The Early Bird Went Home Hungry
Oh, I was up and out early. It was still dark. I was home by 9:15 and I had nothing to show for it. This is an odd swell. I figured my best bet was to hit it early before the tide came up. RPB was my first stop. It was still dark, but I could see there wasn't a lot of swell coming through. So I headed north to the 'bu. It was already crowded. I didn't even care. I was ready. I haven't surfed in two weeks. When I'm surf-starved, I'm aggressive. That's perfect for Malibu. Unfortunately, I didn't see much there except a lot of people bobbing in the water. There were waves. I didn't see anything worth fighting the crowds for. It didn't see like there was much energy in the water. I headed to the home break, even though the direction of this swell isn't a good one for our break. Of course, once I got there, I found plenty of energy in the water. There were those big, beautiful, board-breaking closeouts we all know and love. I wasn't having any of that. I knew the karma was all wrong when I discovered I'd left my wetsuit at home. I had an emergency wetsuit—a long-sleeve springsuit—that I would gladly have used had there been anything to surf. I decided to take the forgotten wetsuit as a sign to leave well enough alone for today. I've had a week of hard workouts. Taking a day off wasn't going to hurt anything. And there will be more waves, better waves, in fact. I'll try again tomorrow with Gracefullee. We'll start early and see what we find.