09 September 2006

Lost Sleep = Waves

By the time this picture was taken, I (and everyone else) was long gone. Yeah, I had to get up pretty damn early in the morning again. It was worth it. The bombs were rolling through when the sun came up and, yes, I was there. This swell wasn't one of the better ones. It came at an odd angle, bringing with it wind and chop. Still, RPB was great before it shut itself down. I got some of the bigger waves. Too bad the shape wasn't quite there. No matter. There were decent-sized waves. That's what I've been waiting for. I look forward to the winter, even though I'm going to complain about the cold water for months. I want some waves with shape and size. Bring them on!


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