29 July 2006

That's Gonna Leave a Mark

About a month ago, I chastised Whiff for going to my home break during a SW swell. He reminded me that he went there, in part, to accommodate his kids. The home break has great playgrounds. Thus it's the best place to surf when your spouse accompanies you to the beach with the kids in tow. So now you know why I ended up at the home break today during a SW swell. It wasn't pretty. Closeouts. Big closeouts. Big closeouts in three feet of water. I should have given up and gone home when my board clipped me beneath my calves and on both heels. That hurt like hell. If I weren't black, I'd be bruised already. But since my melanin doth runneth over, I don't bruise easily. Just know that I'll be surfing in pain tomorrow and I deserve to ride all the waves I paddle for alone!! Look for the well-tanned woman with the bandana on her head. Your show of sympathy for my pain will be greatly appreciated.

I'm doing dawn patrol tomorrow. I want some of this swell. I plan to surf for at least three hours. I need it badly. I've been ready to punch someone's face in lately. That's not me. Normally, I just don't care. I get righteously indignant when necessary. I get pissed off on occasion. However, it's rare that I spend days at a time in a state of agitation. For some reason, I took up residence in this state earlier in the week. Perhaps it's the heat. Perhaps it's the job. Perhaps it's the wife/mom thing. Perhaps it's all of the above. The reason is unimportant. What matters is that I bring my vacation in that state to an end and come back home. My goal tomorrow is to surf so hard that I'm punch drunk. When I surf like that, I can live on the endorphin high for days. If you see me out there tomorrow and you see me frowning, remind me to snap out of it. Thank you kindly for your support.


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