It's Still Hot!!!

A year ago, I was freezing in my springsuit. I remember that distinctly. Granted, I wasn't working full-time so I had less body fat then since I was always working out. But still. I am about to melt. Today I threw caution to the wind and trunked it. And I never got cold! That proves it! It's just too damn hot.

Since there wasn't much of a swell in the water, I took the Tyler out to the home break. The Slick is out of commission. It's not dinged or anything. I stripped off the wax a few weeks ago. Now I refuse to put any new wax on it. That will make me use the other boards in my quiver. I'm about to give the Tyler the same treatment. It's time for me to start paying more attention to my other (i.e., shorter) boards. For some dumb reason, I paddled out today without a leash. I was under the impression that it was small and weak. Once again, I never bothered to take a good look at the waves. I just assumed there was nothing there. There wasn't a lot there, but the home break is a beach break, a fast one. I needed a leash. Those waves tended to close out and I have a hard time knowing when to kick out at a beach break. As a result, I constantly lost my board. I was prepared for that initially. Then, more and more waders entered the water. I then stopped going for waves. Thankfully, Mike and I switched boards. He rides a 7'0" swallowtail. I figured today was as good a day as any to start trying a smaller board. I didn't catch anything. I came close to catching two waves. I don't know what happened on the first one. I remember my back foot slipping off the board on the second one. Mike took my board in because he had to feed the meter. When he came back, he had a leash, my leash, the one that I'd left in the car. As it turns out, Soul Brother #1 passed through to watch for awhile and Mike told him I needed my leash. (Why I didn't get my happy ass out of the water and go get it myself I'll never know.) It was perfect timing. When Mike paddled back out, we both wanted our boards back. (He never surfs longboards.) The leash allowed me to start going for waves again. It was a good session, albeit a crowded one. Who are all of these people on surfboards these days? They aren't there during the winter months. They aren't there in the spring. They need to stay home during the summer too. It's way too crowded out there.

Non-surfing highlight of the day: We walked by a little Hawaiian hole-in-the-wall restaurant after going to a nearby restaurant for fish tacos. Once I spotted those Hawaiian shaved ice treats, I had to have one. Mmmmmmm. That's what I'm talkin' about. Fish tacos and shaved ice. Sweet.