Heatwave

I know, I know. I'm way behind in my posts. I never did get around to talking about my session on Sunday. Somehow, many of us decided to hit up the home break. Why? Why did we do that? The place is a great big closeout when a south swell hits. We'd just surfed RPB the previous day so we knew what we'd find at home. Well, I take that back. Word had gotten out that the home break had been fun the previous day. Still, it couldn't have been as good as a point break—and it wasn't. The waves, obviously, were nothing special. You'd see a shoulder appear in the distance. You'd start to paddle. Then you'd find that the shoulder quietly morphed into a closeout that was steadily bearing down on you. I took a few of the drops. We all did. I made some. I got pummelled on others. No matter though. It was not a bad session. Once again, I got to surf with Gracefullee. That made it two days in a row. It was also damn hot. That meant I got a chance to surf in my shorty john. Hallelujah! I don't know that it will ever get hot enough for me to bareback it. I'm happy to be in the shorty john and let some of my skin see the sun. (Yes, I put on sunscreen on my face and shoulders.) I was also happily surprised to once again see that Soul Brother #2 preferred playing in the water to going to the playground. I want him to be drawn to the water and to be able to say that he grew up happily spending way too much time at the beach. Truthfully, how many black people have you heard say that?