Victory . . .
at sea again. Today's conditions were, in a word, pathetic. I still went out. I'd made a surf date with someone so I was going to paddle out today whether I wanted to or not. Even with the horrible conditions, it was fun. Soul Brother #1 and her husband hung out on the beach talking. Soul Brother #2 played with the kids of one of the other locals—I was at the home break. My surf buddy and I spent a lot of time avoiding giant closeouts and trying to find a shoulder somewhere. I got a few rides. I also got dumped quite a few times going for closeouts. The set waves were huge and shapeless. A lot of time was spent scrapping to get past the Nonetheless, it was enjoyable enough.
OUTSIDE!
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(No, we're not trying to get over that little wave. The big ones were coming behind it.)
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