25 June 2006

Victory . . .

at sea again. Today's conditions were, in a word, pathetic. I still went out. I'd made a surf date with someone so I was going to paddle out today whether I wanted to or not. Even with the horrible conditions, it was fun. Soul Brother #1 and her husband hung out on the beach talking. Soul Brother #2 played with the kids of one of the other locals—I was at the home break. My surf buddy and I spent a lot of time avoiding giant closeouts and trying to find a shoulder somewhere. I got a few rides. I also got dumped quite a few times going for closeouts. The set waves were huge and shapeless. A lot of time was spent scrapping to get past the Nonetheless, it was enjoyable enough.


(No, we're not trying to get over that little wave. The big ones were coming behind it.)


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