04 June 2006


I was at lunch with Soul Grandmother #1 and Soul Brother #2 this afternoon. My cell phone chirped (cos my ringtone is the the sound of crickets chirping). The voice on the other end said, "Did you tell your mom that you surfed like a superstar today?" That's how good my session was. I was feelin' it big time! What a difference a day makes. Wasn't I bemoaning my lost fitness in yesterday's post? Today's session let me know my fitness is fine. I think muscle memory kicked in, after last weekend's three-peat, so things fell into place today. I caught almost every wave I decided I wanted. I did some half-assed paddling for those I didn't trust. But when it was time to go for it, I went.

You know, I think non-surfing spouses don't understand that surfers always keep an alternative plan in mind when they agree to meet at a certain break. I told Soul Brother #1 I was headed to Venice. As usual, I ended up at another break. CYT and I thought Venice would be the call today. Luckily I got there first. All I saw were walls and closeouts. That's when we moved to Plan B: RPB. Once again it was crowded. CYT got the last spot on PCH. I went ahead and parked in the restaurant lot. This was a first for me. I'm always certain someone is there to make you pay. Well, there was no one there, except a whole bunch of surfers parked at the far end. So. Here we are at the exact same break we were at yesterday. We surfed in the same spot(s). Yesterday was nothing to jump up and down about. Today was. There were actual waves rolling through. This time I stayed out of The Point. I don't like it there and it's got nothing to do with the people. The week I surfed this place during an epic swell, but not "Big Wednesday" kind of horrifyingly big swell, I was stationed just south of the point. It's my preferred spot. When the place is breaking, it breaks well there. My point was proved once again with today's session. I was not surfing like someone with sore shoulders. I got more than my share of waves. Suprisingly enough, I seemed to have most of them to myself. Yesterday, it seemed like I was constantly in danger of being sandwiched between people. No thanks. I like my board and my unbroken body. Today was different. I had room to play. Do I remember any specifics? Of course not. I rarely do, especially when I'm firing on all cylinders. The one thing I do remember is taking a late drop on a wave, riding it in, and then having people in the parking lot above cheer. Those people turned out to be some of the crew from the home break. I also remember a wave that tried to run from me, only to have me run it down and take it. CYT is of the opinion that I like to chase waves down. I think she's right. The only problem is this is hard to do when you don't surf regularly. I was able to do it today. I don't know if I'll still be able to do it next week. No matter. Today was a good day. Once again it was hot. I didn't even bother with a fullsuit. The long-sleeve springsuit worked just fine. I could probably have gone with a shorty john. The weather was already a plus. The fact that the waves cooperated made the session a gem. It's been a long time coming, but it was certainly worth the wait.


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