I'm Going for a Hat Trick
I've surfed two days in a row. I'll be happiest if I can also get a session in tomorrow. Soul Brother #1 already knows I'm chomping at the bit. But see, the surf pass is now in full effect. Brother Man just got a new motorcycle, which means he lets me surf in exchange for me letting him ride most of the day (which, in turn, means I've got Soul Brother #2 most of the day). I know it's supposed to be small tomorrow. I don't care. Time spent in the water is time spent working on my paddling muscles. Today's session was perfect for that. I couldn't catch much of anything. Most people weren't catching much of anything. The waves at the home break were mostly closeouts. You'd paddle for them, feel them build beneath your board, and then watch the bottom drop out. I made the drop twice. It wasn't worth it to keep trying to do it throughout the session. The waves were strange. They came one right behind another, thus making them hard to paddle into, let alone catch. The shoulders were nonexistent. It was still a helpful session. Again, the sun was out. The conditions also forced me to do an inordinate amount of paddling for no good reason. Now my shoulders are good and tired. And yet, I still want to go back for more tomorrow.