Oh, I Get It!

When the surf is mediocre, there isn't much to say, is there? No wonder I've been casting loving glances at my bike again. No wonder the other bloggers and I don't have much to say these days. There isn't much to talk about. There are waves. The waves are small. The end.

I went out this morning. I had fun. There were no waves of note (although someone told me the last wave he saw me on was nice). I did get a chance to surf alone even though I was at my home break. For some reason, the folks in our crew tend to congregate between two lifeguard towers, even when the rest of the beach is empty. Sometimes I get tired of that. Sometimes I want to surf without feeling like people are watching me or expecting something from me. Sometimes I want to sit on my board, enjoy the ocean, and be quiet. For me, surfing is not only about catching every wave that comes my way. Today, I caught a handful of waves when I first got in, then I just wanted to sit on the board and think. I don't know about the rest of you, but the only place where I do have some peace and relative quiet is on my surfboard. When I'm preoccupied or stressed—as I am now with the semester coming to a close and papers piling up on the dining room table—I need to be left alone with my thoughts, however chaotic or frenzied they may be. Today's session helped me to calm down a little.