03 October 2012

That Brother Right There . . .

is someone whose story I'm now on a mission to tell. He and I have never met. I'd seen a photo or two of him here and there. I knew he was a surfer. And that was all I knew . . .

until . . .

I watched Hal Jepsen's Cosmic Children and noted that the camera stayed on him for a bit. He was only sitting on the sand, but I was struck by the fact that he was obviously where he was supposed to be.

By that I mean, he wasn't a mere spectator who just happened to be watching a surf contest at Malibu in the late '60s or early '70s. He wasn't Malibu Carl. ("Gimme a dolla.") He was someone who was part of that scene.

He was a surfer.

In fact, he was a very good surfer. Those who surfed Malibu regularly knew him well. I recently asked an old-timer about him. His answer? Well, the words "Jimi Hendrix of surfing" were used.

This brother, the one with the crooked afro and missing front teeth, was a surfer of note.

He's not a young man anymore. And I do believe those teeth were fixed long ago. He is, thankfully, alive and well. Unfortunately, he does not live near the ocean.

I suppose I've now embarked on a journey. I don't even know where I'm going. All I know is that I'm on my way. His story will be told—by me—one way or the other.

9 Comments:

At 10/4/12, 8:48 AM, Blogger Freaky Born Wings said...

Those Hal Jepsen movies are fantastic! Look forward to hearing your report on the Malibu Hendrix.

 
At 10/4/12, 10:37 AM, Anonymous kelped said...

YES. Can't wait to hear more here. And if the journey takes to another and/or additional format, and something like Kickstarter is an option, let us know!!

 
At 10/4/12, 11:56 PM, Blogger Kirk said...

Brilliant.

 
At 10/5/12, 10:18 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

google "stanley washington"

great blog, will say hi next time i see you guys at san-o or elsewhere. good luck!

 
At 10/5/12, 12:39 PM, Blogger BD said...

I dig it. Find him. I want to know more!

 
At 10/5/12, 1:05 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I know who he is. What I didn't, and still don't, know is his story. Stay tuned! He and I are in contact on a daily basis now.

 
At 10/5/12, 9:13 PM, Blogger Surfing Grandma of OC said...

So fricken cool!!! And can't wait to hear the story !!!!

 
At 10/6/12, 2:30 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Very cool! His story will be something I'll look forward too .

 
At 10/6/12, 9:39 PM, Blogger Mikala is Hawaiian for Michelle said...

You are the girl to make it happen! Looking forward to the story!

 

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