The Magic of It All Coming Together Nicely
This was my first wave of the session. This was also my first wave on this mat, one that Paul Gross sent me recently. It's the second iteration of my beloved Omni. Let me tell you, this mat is magical. Paul must have special powers or something; the best board I've ever surfed is one by PG and Spence. Now he sends me a mat that puts the first version of the Omni to shame, and the first Omni was magical too!
Ken Samuels, the photographer, was not at all happy with this photo. We—a prone riding crew of two people on mats and two people on paipos—hit this break early, so the sun had yet to peak enough to brighten everything. The camera was set to shoot a scene with more light. Apparently, I caught this bomb so quickly after paddling out that Ken wasn't quite ready when he saw me speeding across this wave. When he saw the first few pictures of the session, he was not amused. He felt they were too dark and too blurry.
I, on the other hand, looked through those shots, found this one and immediately knew he'd gotten a money shot. As I was on this wave, I felt like the mat and I were doing everything right. The mat locked in like no mat I've ever ridden.
Pranaglider, upon seeing this photo, said, "Such a great shot! so many things going on. outer fin on the water, inner fin and calf getting in position to augment the bottom turn that is about to happen, left arm compressing the front corner of the mat. M obviously focused down the line but coiled up and about to project down the line. great stuff!"
All of us got waves that were worth getting up at 4:30 for.