05 July 2012


I don't blog much anymore. I really don't have that much to say to myself about surfing these days. Yes, I'm mainly talking to myself when I pen these posts. Granted, I know others are reading my posts, thus the reason why I often speak directly to my audience. But when all is said and done, this blog is actually my way of talking to myself, my future self, the one with the memory of a gnat. This blog is the only way I can talk story. Because I don't remember my stories, my sessions, my observations or my musings. I'm pretty bad at names too. In terms of memory, the only things I've been blessed with are an ability to remember faces (although I often can't remember how I know the face in front of me) and a rather encyclopedic knowledge of song lyrics.

I am experiencing a great deal of disquiet of late. I find it difficult to write as a result. I'm not depressed. I'm not even sad. I'm simply devoting more energy than ever to getting through each day. I don't think 24 hours is long enough for someone like me. While I'm not a Type A personality in the least, I still find myself pulled in many directions, trying to get too many things done or solved when there's too little time.

Blogging, as I've now realized, is a luxury for me. Alas, I'm no Thurston Howell III. Luxury and I have yet to cross paths this year. I truly doubt that we will be able to sit down for a drink together before the year is out. Doing so would . . . be . . . a . . . luxury. Nevertheless, I will blog when the muse allows me to sit here without guilt. I should be practicing my drums. Maybe I can find yet another job. The dog probably needs a walk. Is there time for me to skate the ramp? And those are just the highlights. The lowlights need not be rehashed here. When I read these words years from now, I will probably, amazingly enough, remember all that was going on in my life outside of surfing. I won't be able to repeat everything chapter and verse, but I will remember enough. 

Are you looking for a skate deck? Check this out: my friend Ozzie's blog, Blue Tile Obsession, now has its own deck. There's something terribly satisfying about this. I don't know. It's not like this deck is being produced by the thousands and marketed to skaters all over the world. There's no "buy me and be cool like everyone else at the skatepark" mentality behind it. I see this deck as a way of supporting the culture of skating. Wouldn't it be nice if more skaters and surfers could think of ways to wrest the culture back from the big corporations? It's being done in small ways all over the world. Folks are getting together to do things that will never be covered by the big, or little, publications. For instance, I recently attended a paipo meet last weekend. Granted, I rode my mat more than I rode my paipo. Still, we were all in the water doing things that none of the surf corporations would ever label as cool or core . . . even though they are both and then some. It's always nice to see people making it happen because passion, rather than money, compels them to do so. Rock on, Oz! Keep up the good work! The board is, as I told you before, proper!


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