Things That Make You Go "Oink"
Yesterday, a few of us made the trek down to San O to attend Surf a Pig's second annual pig luau. I was at the first one last year and even managed to make it down this year's gathering. Since we didn't park at the site of the event, I forgot to take let my pig strut her stuff amongst all of the other boards that were being shown off. I'm sure she's okay with that, but it's always nice to have one's beauty recognized in public.
The waves weren't important. And that was great since the waves were completely underwhelming. I went down there, once again, to see the tribe. I particularly wanted to finally meet my friend, kick ass shaper Rob Royal. His boards are mind-blowing. Now I really want one!! I'm a big believer in supporting local shapers. They represent much of what is good about surfing. Rob represents all that is good about surfing. Look at this board! He made it for his girlfriend. Was it wrong of me to consider having one of my friends create a diversion long enough for me to grab the board and run? Rob is such a good guy. I definitely want to support his work. Eventually, probably next year, I will do what I can to get one of his boards.
I also met Brian Hilbers yesterday. He was on a board that intrigued me. It was an eight foot hull that was perfect for finding trim, but also turned easily. We talked about that board for a good 10 minutes while Hilbers, who has absolutely no body fat, damn near froze to death. He'd just gotten out of the water. It wasn't the warmest of days. Nevertheless, he wanted to talk about the board. We kept telling him to leave before hypothermia set in. He would have none of it. He was too stoked to care. I loved what I saw. He offered to let us try the board. I would have done so had we all been closer to the water or parked together. I'm going to inquire more about that board. I don't know what it was, but I will find out.
I finally met Kameron Brown. He, like so many others in the surf world, is a sweetheart. I got to surf with Gene Cooper. All I can say is . . . hottie alert! He's one of my favorite people on the planet. And let's just say that the gym has been very good to him! Interestingly enough, he was riding an old Tom Morey board. Yes, he was shredding. They all shred! Who is "they"? "They" are all of the folks we hear about who tear it up, both in the shaping bay and in the ocean. They were at the pig luau. And every last one of them shreds!
That is all.
Hug your local shaper and say nice things about him (or her) in public. That's been one of my mottos for the last few years.
Pray for a south swell. We need a mat meet!