God Bless Us All, Every One . . . Including RuPaul
Best Christmas surf ever!!
Actually, I'd never surfed on Christmas day before. In order to make it happen, I got permission from the boss. I'm speaking of my child, of course. Christmas is all about him really. I'm not religious, therefore Soul Brother #2 is the actual reason for the season in my house. I've always tried to let Christmas be his day. Little kids deserve that. But he's not so little anymore. He now understands that a family works best when everyone is happy. I let him know I'd be especially happy if Santa brought waves and sent me to them this year. Well, when he and I discussed this a few days ago, he told me to go surf: "It's your day too, Mom." Then that little handsome face gave me that smile that is going to just kill the ladies in a few years.
Traditionally, Christmas is a day when I prepare a rather large breakfast. My mom did this for decades. Now that her "kitchen is closed," I do the breakfast . . . even though I normally don't eat breakfast. I was not going to go against tradition just to surf. That would have thrown the earth off its axis. All I could do was hope the tide was right for a midday session.
Thank you, Santa.
There's nothing like driving to the beach in an ugly Christmas sweater (ten bucks on eBay), shorts and Vans while behind the wheel of a big red '65 station wagon. Merry Christmas to me!!
Question of the day: when did I start surfing switch like I know what I'm doing? Today was a first in that respect. I've dabbled with surfing switch here and there. I had a successful switch stance wave a few weeks ago. It was only the one wave though. And I hadn't tried it again since then. Until today.
And it seemed rather easy.
I'm thinking that my newfound ability to surf switch is an outgrowth of my skateboarding. Fakies force you to become comfortable with having your back foot be your front foot. What is really cracking me up is that I'm surfing switch on a hull. It's not like hulls are as stable as a normal surfboard. Nevertheless, my longboard hull is the board I'm always on when I decide to turn and face a wave that's behind me.
Not only did I surf on Christmas day, but I met RuPaul when I got out of the water. He and his boyfriend were walking up the beach. There's a concrete platform you must climb up in order to get to the stairs that take you back up to your car. I was already on the platform. He and his man walked up while I was standing there. It's a small platform and you have to be careful. I always have to lean my board up against it, climb up it and then carefully bring the board up so I can head up the stairs. Since the platform is rather small, you can't grab your board while someone else is on the platform or even close to the platform. That's why I told them to go ahead of me. Well, RuPaul's man wanted to help me with my board. I appreciated it, but I told him I could get it myself. (I was fearful that he'd not realize you can't bang a surfboard against concrete or rocks, so I preferred to get it myself.) He was insistent though. In the meantime, RuPaul is standing there trying to figure out how to get on the platform without messing up his suit. Yes, he was in men's clothes. Finally, RuPaul asked me to give him a hand and pull him onto the platform. I was happy to oblige. Then, RuPaul's boyfriend carefully lifted my board up to me and off we all went.