Home Break Closeouts—The Gift that Keeps on Giving
posted by Surfsister @ 21:23
9 comments
BLACK PEOPLE DON'T SURF
(Did I stutter?)
16 October 2011
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9 Comments:
1. your smile seems very large, or is it the camera angle? ;)
2. it was a close out swell that ended with FLAT...all the way down here!
LSORO
Oh, I'm cracking up . . . as usual. I learned how to surf in those closeouts. I know how to spot them. So I always smile when I can surf them without getting clobbered.
Cheers, LSORO!!
At least you have green water and are getting wet! Brown, smelly inlet water, low morning tides and too much rain still messing up our local break. Bring on summer! Even with the onshores, it's gotta be better than this.
Hey now...you should try to pull off a lip drop on one of those beauties!
Oh, I do!! There are loads of pictures of the board washing ashore without me.
It would be too bumpy and I would have been tossed off the board by now. LOL...But I still would have surfed it too! Or at least tried to!
if you were on a ply paipo, you'd be inside, DEEP! betcha we could still see that great smile?
LSORO
oh, and i never see a smile that big in your skate photos?
I'm starting to smile when I skate. I'm no longer in fear of falling every minute. Hit the skatepark yesterday. No fear of falling and almost hit the coping in a smaller bowl. That made me smile.
right on...skate sister!
LSORO
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