10 July 2011

I Suffer for My Art

Not really art. I'm not artistic. I am good with words, but I'm not sure one can call that art. I did suffer for my mat though. When I emerged from the water after today's session, I was a bit battered and bleeding in several places. Since I've never been on a surf trip and don't foresee going on one any time soon, I'll have to assume that this is the closest I'll get to being bounced off a reef. The rocks at the spot where I rode the mat were covered with something sharp. And I wasn't paying attention to the fact that the tide had gone down . . . a lot. So, as I cruised in, my uncovered legs (since I was in a springsuit) scraped along those rocks. Ouch! #@#$%&! By the time I stood up, it was too late. There was blood running from my right knee and my left ankle. Lesson learned. And I'm no wimp. I'm going right back out tomorrow. I'll be in a fullsuit though. I wasn't quite warm enough in the "Liberation" wetsuit that I had been saving for just the proper occasion.

I decided to head away from the popular L.A. breaks. I'm just tired of the crowds, the insanity, the kookiness and all that summer brings to the beach. I'm not putting people down. I think everyone should enjoy the beach. I just don't think I have to enjoy it with them. So, I got on the road. I met up with two other mat riders for a session, one which saw an inquiry to another surfer about his Mini Simmons turn into him asking, "Are you Surfsister?" Doh!

The spot we chose wasn't overly crowded. We all got waves. We all got good waves. It was certainly worth the drive. In fact, I'm returning to the scene of the crime tomorrow. Today, just as we were leaving, a fourth mat rider showed up. He would later say that the waves got even better. Apparently, he stayed in for something like seven hours!! My goodness!! I don't have that kind of stamina. I was happy with two and a half hours. Then again, I was freezing in the springsuit by the time I got out. I'll be in a fullsuit tomorrow. And, no, I won't be in the water for seven hours.

In Greenough We Trust!


At 7/10/11, 9:54 PM, Blogger three rolled said...

Sorry for outing you.

At 7/10/11, 10:58 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I was happy to meet you! I've been outed before. It was nice to meet you. Guess what? I have some pix of you too! Send me a comment with your email. I won't publish the comment. I love your board, by the way!

At 7/23/11, 11:52 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

Please let me say hell yes your writing is art.


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