Pig Roast
Mike Black at Surf a Pig brought the tribe together at San O on Saturday. There were no invitations or specific directions relating to time and specific place. You just got there when you got there. Then you looked for . . . pigs.
It wasn't hard to find our group. Pigs were everywhere. I brought two. I left the Cooperfish Flexpig on the car since there were already a bunch of them leaning up against the palapa. Of course, I had to have the loudest pig in the bunch. You can see my board from a mile away. I wanted to bring three pigs, but decided to leave one at home since I had to coordinate bringing the spouse, the child, the dog and food for all of us (which isn't easy since we don't eat the same things). As it turns out, our little day trip went off without a hitch. We enjoyed ourselves and the other folks at the pig roast. The highlights of my day were bookending my surf session with mat sessions, talking to Jim Phillips (who told me the winner of the very first U.S. professional surf contest was a black guy named Billy Johnson), having Gene Cooper paddle up to me while I was on my mat and ask if I wanted to trade surf craft and being able to share the day with another mat rider. By the time we got back to L.A., we were all tired, but happy to have spent a great day at San O with the tribe.
posted by Surfsister @ 22:26
5 comments
5 Comments:
Nice. Correct me if I am wrong and apologies if necessary but.....I think I have just realised why your blog is called 'Intruder in the Surf'?? Is it because darker complexioned people are rare out there? I am waiting for our local Indigenous darker complexioned mob to start surfing - we don't ever see them out there in this neck of the woods. They are often natural athletes, have an awesome reputation in Aussie rule footy, so it will be ON when they show up I reckon!
Well, in a word, yes!! Initially, the blog was called The Surf and the Fury. I love William Faulkner and was often taking his novel titles, tweaking them and naming the blog. I would change the name every so often. But once I hit on Intruder in the Surf (from Intruder in the Dust), I just left it because it does speak to what I represent both as a woman and a person of color. I should have changed the name of the blog a number of times since using this Faulkner title, but it worked for me so I've not changed it at all since settling on this one.
I JUST LOVE that board! It does stand out..but it is sooo beautiful!
Mat waves, pig waves, nice! What kind of mat do you use at San O? Different than the one you take out at your usual spots?
I tried two different Fourth Gear Flyer mats at San O. I started out on my 5GF model. My second mat session saw my on my Standard. The former is new for me, so I was just trying it out. Too bad San O wasn't delivering good mat waves that day.
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