Losing Count

I realized this afternoon that I have no idea how many days I've surfed without a break. Six? Seven? Who knows?

Today's session was all about the mat. The tide was too high for a board. I gave it a go, but recognized that staying on a board in waves that broke in two feet of water probably wasn't a good idea. Sometimes the tides get to me. Today's session was almost ended by the presence of way too much water. The tide was just killing any kind of surfing on a board. Thankfully, I feel no guilt about cheating on my surfboards. I looked at the waves as they marched to shore. The tide was high, yes, but those were waves that were begging to be ridden. So I ran to the car to get a mat.

I got a few decent rides before the tide killed the waves altogether. This was one of them:


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