27 May 2010

Different Day, Different Car, Different Shoes

What a difference two days makes.

Well, there's not much notable swell in the water, but I continue to paddle out regardless of things which indicate that I might want to stay on land. The mist was thick when I got to the home break today. The wind was up too. But damn if I didn't see some shape out there.

And I was right. My Almond Joy and I dodged the closeouts while picking off whatever shoulders we could find. No leash. No fear. I swam a couple of times, but, for the most part, kept the board from leaving my side.

At this point in my surfing, I'm definitely partial to pigs and displacement hulls. The only other type of board that has gotten my attention is Wegener's Bluegill (which is, I think, more of a planing hull type of board).

Life is good.


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