Here, Piggy, Piggy, Piggy!!
Only swam twice in the first session. Same with the second session (when it looked like she was heading for a high-speed collision with the rocks—only to be found reclining quietly behind me). As big as this board looks, it's actually rather light and turns quickly. The poor girl has only ever seen the home break closeouts (pictured below) and some nasty windswell, VAS messiness. Wait till she gets a load of a pointbreak!
This girl is a keeper.
4 Comments:
Does your board have a name? (sorry if you said what it was and I just missed it).
-Kristen
I guess her name is "Miss Piggy". I never name my boards. I just assign them a gender. My longboard hull was given a name by the shaper. Oh!! I did give my 7 foot hull the name of "Carrot" because of what it represented. But my other boards remain nameless.
You look so good riding that board!!!
Thanks, Jamie. I was preparing for the inevitable smackdown that our home break waves deliver. It's rare to find a shoulder that holds up. And yet, we surf there anyway. Go figure.
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