08 October 2008

Is it the Economy?

It's not the Great Depression. People aren't jumping out of windows or anything like that. No, they're all out surfing . . . badly . . . because they no longer have jobs. Today's session started off rather nicely. It was hot again. The water was glassy. Every once in awhile, a decent set would roll through. There must have been fewer than 10 of us in the water. Although there were a few breaches of surf etiquette, we all played well with others for the most part.

Then, THEY paddled out. Who are "THEY," you ask? THEY are the people with little home break training. They paddle out, sit right in front of you as you're about to pop up, drop in as you're going down the line. THEY are the people who make you start cursing under your breath when you see them coming. Well, THEY were at it again today. THEY surfed with reckless and leashless abandon on a day when the swell was still making an appearance. THEY surfed a big-ass longboard right into some woman's head. THEY sat in a group right in front of me, totally fucking up the end of my session. THEY didn't know how to surf, yet insisted on lining up with those of us who were waiting for the biggest set waves. THEY did what they do best.

THEY tried to drop in on me and then THEY sat, with his back to both me and the wave, in my path. THEY never considered the fact that he should have, one, kept his eyes toward the horizon and, two, gotten out of my way. THEY were out there in force today.

How bad was it? CYT and I opted to paddle in rather than wait for the "one last" set wave. We'd seen enough. It wasn't safe to be in the water with the them I'm referring to as THEY.

Once again, I surfed about three hours. It's hard to get out when the weather is perfect like that. And the little one was getting out of school early today. It was easier to stay in the water until it was time to pick him up than it would have been to run home only to come right back to where I was.


At 10/8/08, 5:03 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Let me guess, Sunset Blvd. You need to speak up to these kooks...they need to know! Just like Rudolph and the Island of Misfit Toys, Sunset literally is the Surfbreak of misfit surfers.

At 10/8/08, 6:09 PM, Blogger Bill said...


At 10/9/08, 10:43 AM, Blogger Worm said...

it's true you should tell them (NICELY) what's up before someone else tells them the hard way.
when is the next time you're surfing i'm thinking of going down there for a slide.

in other news we can all breath as sigh of relief as it turns out people are going start killing themselves over this financial clusterfuck we're in.


At 10/9/08, 1:21 PM, Blogger pushingtide said...

I bet even Torre snaked you!

At 10/9/08, 1:32 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

worm, I'll be out again over the weekend. I'm usually in and out early, typically at dawn.

Next week I'll be out. Wednesday is always a surf day for me (whereas other days usually involve me working a session around taking my husband to physical therapy—not allowed to drive yet—after dropping the kid off at school).


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