22 October 2008

Alone Again, Naturally

No, I wasn't alone out there today. There were six of us out during most of my session. I managed to surf a peak without company for about an hour and a half. For that I am thankful.

Then all hell broke loose! The wind began howling offshore without warning. It got so bad that my locks were in my face whether I was facing the horizon or facing the shore. It was at that same time that a bunch of other surfers began to paddle out. They paddled out. I paddled in. I couldn't surf in; I couldn't see!

I got out only to find that someone had ordered hot with a side order of sweating. I'd had no idea it was supposed to be close to 100 degrees today. Here we were at the ocean . . . and it was 90 something degrees. It's usually hot inland and cool at the shore. Not today.

I did, however, surf in almost solitude. That was good enough for me.


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