13 October 2008

19th Nervous Breakdown

It didn't last long. It's kind of like falling into a hole that you know you can climb out of, but it's going to take all of your strength to do so. Instead of making many futile attempts, you stay in the hole biding your time and waiting until you feel you're strong enough to drag yourself out. I pulled myself out of the hole a few hours ago.

Now all I need are some waves. Strike that. All I need are some decent waves. I tried to ride my 7'0" yesterday. I was so out of sorts that I couldn't even pop up. My timing was off and there was no commitment. None. That's not the way I surf . . . usually. Let's hope that tomorrow brings a little something, a little something with some shape.

4 Comments:

At 10/14/08, 6:33 PM, Blogger Christian said...

Things are so damn crazy in the world right now. One day at a te. Scratch that. Just try to get through one moment at a time!

Hope you had a good sesh today.

 
At 10/14/08, 7:47 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

No session for me. I couldn't find surf during my two small windows of opportunity. I'll try again tomorrow.

 
At 10/15/08, 11:29 AM, Blogger clayfin said...

it's a frikkin crime, hot Santa Anas, full moon mornings, no swell...

 
At 10/15/08, 1:50 PM, Anonymous Hafreez said...

You absolutely having a unique interest

Keep it up surfsister!

:)

 

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