19th Nervous Breakdown

It didn't last long. It's kind of like falling into a hole that you know you can climb out of, but it's going to take all of your strength to do so. Instead of making many futile attempts, you stay in the hole biding your time and waiting until you feel you're strong enough to drag yourself out. I pulled myself out of the hole a few hours ago.

Now all I need are some waves. Strike that. All I need are some decent waves. I tried to ride my 7'0" yesterday. I was so out of sorts that I couldn't even pop up. My timing was off and there was no commitment. None. That's not the way I surf . . . usually. Let's hope that tomorrow brings a little something, a little something with some shape.