Can a Sista Get Some Solitude?
Tomorrow's goal is to find an uncrowded wave. Period. I'm willing to put some miles on the car to find one. I don't think I'll find an empty wave. I mean, this is Los Angeles. I do think I can find a wave to ride without 25 of my closest friends. Nothing personal. I just need some time to surf freely.
Think about it: Do you surf freely when there are other people jockeying for the wave? I don't. If I have to spend an inordinate amount of time looking left and right before I pop-up, I'm already thinking the wave is too crowded. If I have to surf as if I'm in the Winter Olympics skiing through a slalom course, I'm already thinking the wave is too crowded. All I want is a chance to surf with my guard down. I won't drive all over L.A. County looking for this mythical wave. That alone would probably set the ozone layer back about a month. No, I've got a specific spot in mind and I'll be heading up there tomorrow morning. I don't think it will be crowded.
Pray for uncrowded surf.