Can a Sista Get Some Solitude?
Tomorrow's goal is to find an uncrowded wave. Period. I'm willing to put some miles on the car to find one. I don't think I'll find an empty wave. I mean, this is Los Angeles. I do think I can find a wave to ride without 25 of my closest friends. Nothing personal. I just need some time to surf freely.
Think about it: Do you surf freely when there are other people jockeying for the wave? I don't. If I have to spend an inordinate amount of time looking left and right before I pop-up, I'm already thinking the wave is too crowded. If I have to surf as if I'm in the Winter Olympics skiing through a slalom course, I'm already thinking the wave is too crowded. All I want is a chance to surf with my guard down. I won't drive all over L.A. County looking for this mythical wave. That alone would probably set the ozone layer back about a month. No, I've got a specific spot in mind and I'll be heading up there tomorrow morning. I don't think it will be crowded.
Pray for uncrowded surf.
4 Comments:
You said you were driving "up" so I'm guessing you're not coming south, but there are some great uncrowded spots down in my neck of the woods, past the county line and way beyond the gate. (I dare not speak their name or the crowds will flock.) You know what I'm sayin'?
We'll talk! I used to go down to the OC a lot to surf with a friend. But now we don't work together anymore (as we all know I won't hold a job long) and he doesn't seem to be surfing much.
success???
What I found was good enough! Six people out through most of my session. I left when the wicked onshore winds started up and a bunch of people started paddling out.
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