Too Tired to Surf?

I blame the rain! It rained so much last weekend that I neglected to pay close attention to the surf reports. I was giving way too much credence to the weather reports. If you'll recall, there was talk of rain on Tuesday night or Wednesday. Whatever. In my mind, that meant 72 additional hours away from the surf. In order to compensate, I've been back in the pool and in the weight room. Wasn't I surprised when it didn't rain and then I discovered a swell was one the way? Now I'm sore. I'm trying to hang on until this swell passes. I can rest when it's flat.

Today's session was somewhat spur of the moment. I'd spent most of the day working while keeping an eye on one particular cam. Throughout the morning, the place was a swamp. Then I started to see a few lines. That was all I needed. A few lines trumps no lines. I'd given myself a small window of time to surf since my little man was to be picked up at school at 3. I was in the water just after 1. I was out by 2:30. It never fails that the waves get even better when it's time for you to leave. It's probably best that I couldn't stay in longer. My shoulders are heavy and full of lactic acid. I caught my share, although I didn't have as much spark as I do when I'm running on a full tank. Why expend it all now? There's more to come in a few days. I need to keep something in the reserves for that. I was on the longboard today. I'll be on it again tomorrow. On Saturday, I'm switching to the Bonzer. Perhaps that'll be the day I can really put it to the test.