09 December 2006

Expect Nothing . . .

and you won't be disappointed. Yeah, I was up at the crack of dawn with everyone else. All I've got to say is this swell isn't doing shit around here. It was flat at the first place I stopped. I didn't stay long enough to have a decent conversation. If the place wasn't firing when I got there, it wasn't going to fire. Period. I moved on. And there I was at the home break, watching long lulls . . . between closeouts that didn't even have the nerve to be giant. They were big, yes. Massive, no. What kind of swell is that? I went home unsurfed. I wasn't mad. I hadn't been expecting much anyway. Some people paddled out. Others wanted to wait for the tide to fill in. I know shitty not-gonna-get-any-better-today surf when I see it. Tomorrow is another day. I'll try again maƱana.


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