10 June 2005

And the Kook Move of the Day Award Goes to . . .

me!!! I spaced out while on a wave, turned back in the opposite direction as the wave closed out in front of me, and proceeded to practically run over the guy next to me. Granted, we shouldn't be surfing that close together anyway, but I was at Sunset. And, well, you know how Sunset is. But that's beside the point. I saw him there when I popped up. Then I proceeded to literally get lost in the moment as I rode the wave. My bad!! I expected yelling and screaming. I was even going to tell him I would give him 20 seconds to curse me out. Believe it or not, he wasn't even mad. He should have been. That was a stupid move on my part. When I saw that I was going to probably mow him down, I immediately jumped off the board. If you're hit by a longboard with someone on it, you're going to be hurt. However, a longboard without its rider can be avoided or pushed out of the way (most of the time). Of course, within five minutes of that fiasco, he and I were buddies. He even gave me a wave . . . a left. He was a goofy foot too, yet he unselfishly gave me a wave he could have had. And it was a good one! Now that's what I call "Aloha spirit".

I spent the last two days surfing Sunset. It's not that I like Sunset all that much. It's just that my break pretty much sucks on a daily basis these days. Yesterday's session was particularly good. For some reason, very few people were out. Most of us were able to get the waves to ourselves through most of the session. After I'd been there about an hour, Sunset gave us a few gifts. It started dropping a few bombs, bombs like I haven't seen since Sunset was firing hard in January. These bombs were mushy, but big enough to make people hoot and smile. It was great. I actually think today's kook move was in part the result of yesterday's session. I got spoiled yesterday. Today, I guess I was thinking I had that wave to myself and had the room to milk it (which is why I often turn and go the other way when a wave starts to run out of steam or closeout). I was wrong.

Sunset wasn't as good today as it was yesterday. The waves were smaller. There was actually a crowd today, many of whom were attending a surf school there. Still, there were waves to be had. I took the Slick yesterday. But given the mushiness of the waves, I decided it was time to put the Tyler back in the rotation. That board is sweet!!! No wonder I want to divorce my husband, bump off Tyler's wife, and marry Tyler. How does one make a board that's so perfect? Oh, I saw Marlon yesterday. He's now up to 52 boards. Yes, the guy has 52 surfboards!!! Where do you put 52 surfboards? Most surf shops don't have that many boards in their inventory!!! I don't feel so bad about having three (soon to be four) boards when I think about him and his menagerie.


At 6/11/05, 9:51 AM, Anonymous srfdad said...


I have been reading your blog for a short while, and I do find your view on the sport somewhat entertaining. However, in an earlier post you wrote about ditching your board when caught inside because you wear a leash. Now, in this post you justify bailing off your board as you are just about to collide with someone
at Sunset. Just a little tip....
NEVER EVER EVER EVER DITCH YOUR BOARD UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES. ALWAYS TRY TO RETAIN CONTROL OF YOUR BOARD EVEN IF THAT MEANS YOU GET HURT!!! Now that I got that off my chest, I have to tell you that loose boards will cause worse injuries than two people colliding who have control of their sticks. A good friend of mine has a black eye because of a kook doing just what you did. The kook dropped in on my friend, he saw my buddy, bailed, and because his board was not under his control, it
popped out of the wave and hit my friend in the eye. Now my bud looks like he went ten rounds with Mike Tyson. Please try to think of the people around you and always hang on to your board.

At 6/11/05, 12:02 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I hear you. In the past if I mentioned ditching the board, it was done when no one was anywhere near me. In the case I mentioned in this post, it appeared that ditching it was the safer thing to do. (You had to be there.) I could be wrong. And you are right that it's best to try to retain control. I appreciate your advice and will remember it. That's how you get better, right? Thanks for you stern words.


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