This is Why Folks' Leashes Get Cut!

I have a friend who has told me stories about how he and his dad used to deal with people who didn't mind their Ps and Qs in the water.

Fins would be broken off of boards.

Leashes were cut with knives.

I remember being a bit taken aback by such talk. Well, color me none too surprised by people handling their business when necessary.

Dude, I was already on the wave. And here comes your happy ass snaking me. Seriously? It even appears that I'm in a bit of tube. I never even noticed. I was too busy giving the stinkeye to this $%^&;!

Don't be a dick in the water.

That

is

all.

I Really Need to Cheer Down

Of course, that is impossible on a mat. Today's session was especially memorable because Tremor, my mat partner in crime, and I were doing a hell of a lot of hooting out there. The waves were pretty much perfect. There was enough swell in the water to, on separate occasions, snatch the mats out of our hands. That is such a rare occurrence. However, if there's a decent amount of power in the water, it is likely you and the mat are going to part company. Hell, a couple of those set waves had me going, "#$%^# #*^&%^@ #$#$#$#!!

Before half of L.A. paddled out to join us, we were having a ball. I said I was going to ride my mat more this year and I meant it. I'm holding true to that promise too. I knew this spot would break through the high tide.

It delivered.

The wave looks to be good on a board. I know it's great for a mat. I certainly didn't see any surfers getting truly covered up. But look at Tremor!!

Bring on the SW swells of summer!

OH MY GOD!!! (Hits the floor with a thud!)

I must have that drumkit!

Deathwish 2013

 

Do you know how I know I'm a badass (or certifiably insane)? I dropped into that wave while sandwiched by two—count 'em, two—SUPs. It wasn't the smartest thing I've ever done in the water. 

Our team ended up winning first place for the "Most Waves" category during the Sunday running of the Rincon Invitational. The wave wasn't pumping by any means. I still got mine though.

I've said it before: "When in Greenough country, ride your mat." And that I did.

Let's Kickstart the Fund for Grain's Mobile Classroom

I Have a Crush on the Jack Bruce of 1968!

Jack Bruce will be 70 in May. God bless him, but I won't have a crush on a 70 year old until I'm . . . 70! But the 25 year old Jack Bruce?

There are no words.

In other news, I rode my mat all last week. I wore myself out. In fact, I had to take a day to rest. Everything hurt. Everything! I still got my waves though. I ended the week a happy waterperson.

I got back on my board today. The waves, even with the fat tide, were to my liking. I don't spend much of the winter at my home break. The wave tends to be uncooperative during the winter months. I head south to a beach that pulls in the good winter waves. Then, as summer approaches and this winter spot shuts down, I return to the home break or points north of that.

The best part of summer is having more spots to surf and mat. My wintertime choices are rather limited. Summer, however, is an entirely different story. I'm anxious to get my mat back to my favorite mat riding spot. When that place lights up, it's a thing to behold, especially when riding prone.

Pray

for

Surf!

From Summer to Winter in Fewer Than 24 Hours

Saturday was, well, Saturday was a summer day, wasn't it? The sun was so bright, so dominant that it was difficult to see the features of those of us who were out in the water. It turned us all into silhouettes—happy ones.

It was easily 80 degrees with offshore winds and waist high sets. Summer, or at least the illusion of summer, was upon us. In other words, it was hot and I was ecstatic.

Sunday? Oh well.

It was easily 60 degrees with onshore winds and not much swell to speak of. It looked so damn dreadful that I knew I'd be in for a lot of disappointment on my board. I opted for the mat. At least the mat would ensure a fun session if nothing else. (What people often don't realize is that I actually prefer to ride the mat when the waves are good. However, there are usually way too many people in the water, thus riding the mat becomes an exercise in futility. You get on the board to ensure both your safety and your wave count.)

I managed to bounce off one of my friends during the session. After an SUP rider took one wave too many, I figured I'd just take one for the team. I went to cut him off at the pass. As I was doing so, a friend was passing in front of me, trying not to get run over by the sweeper. AHAHAHAHAHAHA! She got run over by me instead.

It's pretty funny to see the reaction of those who are run over by a mat. I guess they think injury is the likely outcome. We all know it isn't. The typical outcome? Laughter.

Pray for summer to return!