15 September 2011

One Split Session = Stoke to the Nth Degree

All it takes is a nice wave, a quiet break, good friends, a mat, a hull and a good attitude to make the morning complete. And complete it was.

For the first time in over a year, I got back on my seven foot hull (aka Carrot). I wasn't even sure if I would get a wave, what with the length of the board and me usually surfing boards that are two feet longer. Well, I did get a wave, one that reminded me of how magical hulls are.

I'm determined to spend as much time as possible on this board during the late fall and winter. I will take it to The Place Which Shall Remain Nameless, hoping upon hope that the kelp decides to take up residence at another beach, preferably one that people aren't trying to surf.

I think I'm now truly in a race against time and age. Whatever I'm going to do, on my shorter boards, has to be done now. I'm still strong. I'm still relatively quick. The time is now.

Besides, I am just plain tired of carrying longboards to spots that require a long walk between the car and the break. Yeah, I said it!! The break we hit today takes some work to get to. I took a longboard the first time I surfed it on a board. After that, I took the eight foot mid-sized board. Today? The seven foot hull was the call, especially since I was also carrying a mat and a pair of fins. Since this is a wave whose shape is reliably wonderful, the hull is a safe bet there.

Anyway, we started the session on mats. As usual, we found a wave that held up and delivered. But as the tide came up, I got tired of how hard I had to work to get into the waves. That's when I switched to Carrot. The ride is amazing. It almost feels like you're floating. I don't know. This board makes me feel like I'm very light on my feet. I like that.


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